Lime-rich, or chalky, soils can be heavy or light. Made up of alkaline and calcium carbonate, this soil type tends to lack the nutrients necessary to support some kinds of trees and shrubs. For this reason, when having this type of soil, choose a plant that can withstand alkaline conditions. One way you can identify this type of soil is by locating any white lumps. Also, if you wish to add nutrients to chalky soils, then you can add a bit of clay soil. The size of the particles this soil has is larger than clay particles but smaller than sand.
Among the different types of soils, we also have peat soil. This kind mainly consists of organic materials and water particles. Peat soils tend to be among the top options when it comes to the best soil for planting trees.
It provides excellent conditions for newly planted trees and young trees. Lastly, we have loamy soil. This is a mixture of sand, silt, and clay particles. This mixture helps counteract the drawbacks of each soil type. Fine-textured organic matter such as peat moss, placed in the planting hole can act like a sponge in a bathtub, holding too much moisture after rain or irrigation.
Coarser-textured material, such as composted pine bark, is less likely to hold excess moisture. In heavy clay soils, use a shovel or mattock to notch out the sides of the round planting hole. This will enable growing roots to more easily enter the surrounding soil.
Organic matter should comprise approximately 10 to 20 percent of the total soil volume. For example, preparing a bed 8 inches deep requires the addition of about 1 to 2 inches of organic matter such as compost, leaf mold, or composted pine bark. Drainage can be improved in clay soils by subsoiling or deep tilling prior to adding organic matter. Composted materials immediately provide organic matter to the soil. Do not use uncomposted bark products as amendments.
Freshly milled bark that has not been composted will slowly rob plants of nitrogen when used as an amendment. As microorganisms in the soil feed on bark and decompose it, they will use nitrogen in the soil. Also, the pH of the soil often drops dramatically below the desirable range when uncomposted materials are used as amendments.
Well-composted organic products have a rich, earthy smell, a crumbly appearance, and the original organic materials are no longer recognizable. For the best choices of composted material, choose either well decomposed material from your home compost pile, or purchase composted pine bark.
The composted pine bark may still contain some small bark chips, but this can aid in improving the internal drainage in fine-textured clay soils. Additionally, composted pine bark may help suppress certain soil borne disease causing organisms. In well-drained soil, the planting hole should never be dug any deeper than the height of the root ball.
This means that the soil at the bottom of the hole is left undisturbed. Setting the root ball on loosened soil will cause the tree to settle and sink too deeply into the soil. Locate the topmost layers of roots in the root ball so that it will be level with the soil surface.
Check to be sure that there is not an excess layer of soil or container media already covering the root ball. As little as a half-inch of excess soil over the root ball can inhibit or prevent water from entering the root ball, especially on trees planted from containers. Only mulch should be placed over the root ball. In well-drained soil, the planting hole should be at least twice and preferably five times wider than the root ball.
In poorly drained or compacted soil, the plant is best placed higher than its original planting depth at about 2 to 4 inches higher than the surrounding soil.
Be sure to build the soil up beside the root ball so that the sides are not exposed, and do not place additional soil on top of the root ball. This will allow oxygen to reach the roots in the upper surface of soil. It will also cause excess water to drain away from the plant rather than collecting beneath it. Do not disturb the soil under the root ball to prevent any later settling, which will move the plant roots deeper into the soil.
The top of the root ball may dry out quickly in the summer on some sites, so be prepared to irrigate accordingly. Trees and shrubs grown in plastic or other hard-sided containers can be removed from their containers and placed directly in the holes prepared for them.
Cut any circling roots so they will not strangle the tree later on. If a tree or shrub is pot-bound, use pruning shears or a serrated knife to make slices 1 to 2 inches deep going from the top of the root ball to the bottom. Make these slices in three or four places around the root ball. Pull the roots growing along the outside of the root ball away from the root ball. Research has shown that although this kind of pruning does not increase root growth after planting, slicing root balls, whether pot-bound or not, enhances the distribution of regenerated roots in the surrounding landscape soil.
New roots grow from behind the cut ends. When preparing the hole for a bare-root tree, dig it wide enough so that roots can be spread out. Do not cut or break roots or bend them in order to fit the hole. Once the plant is out of its container, look at the roots. If they are densely bound in a circular pattern or have started growing in the shape of the container, break up the pattern.
The biggest mistake you can make at this point is to place a root-bound plant into the ground as is. At a minimum, it will likely never establish or reach a fraction of its potential. Keep in mind, this is your only realistic chance to do this. I have seen many trees and shrubs die within months of planting because no one took the time to break up the root-bound pattern.
Better to give them a fresh start than allow the constrictive pattern to only get worse below ground. I often scratch my fingers across the sides and bottom of the plant, even in mild cases. Another reason for digging a wide planting hole is to provide the best opportunity for roots to expand into its new growing environment.
Unfortunately, all too often, we dig a hole that is barely wide enough for the root ball, and expect to compensate by adding some soil amendments. But in cases where the planting hole is insufficiently wide, studies show roots tend to not spread out into beyond the narrow planting hole, instead opting for the luxury conditions of the amended soil where they tend to stay. The benefit is ample opportunity for full root expansion, and in a soil environment that is greatly improved.
Be sure to lightly tamp or hand-pack the soil around the plant roots to ensure good soil to root contact. I add water to the hole after backfilling half way. Not only does it provide needed moisture but also the water helps eliminate air pockets that could otherwise result in dead roots. Water again thoroughly once all the soil is in place. I like to use a hose-end nozzle or wand that delivers a strong blast of water to break up clumpy soil and allow new soil to fill in and settle into those vacated air pockets.
Place about three inches of organic matter such as shredded leaves, or ground bark or wood mulch around the plant, at least out to the drip line. Further is better. Instead, simply break up the clumps in existing soil, remove the rocks and backfill. Studies show plant roots growing in only the native soil actually did a better job at establishing and expanding beyond the original hole.
I find the best and easiest way to eliminate air pockets during planting is to blast the backfilled soil with a stiff stream of water after refilling the hole about half way.
Then again after all the soil has been added back. Eliminate air pockets. While you could lightly tamp or hand-pack the soil around the plant roots to ensure good soil-to-root contact, I prefer to add a stiff spray of water to the hole after backfilling half way. Not only does it provide needed moisture but the water also helps eliminate air pockets that could otherwise result in dead roots or worse without compacting the soil too much.
Finally, water again gently but thoroughly once all the soil is in place. Add mulch. Starting about two inches from the trunk leave this area exposed , place roughly two inches of organic matter such as shredded leaves, or ground bark or nuggets around the plant, at least out to the drip line.
Further is better. Mulch helps retain much-needed moisture and helps keep roots cooler near the surface—a very important requirement for newly installed plants. Perhaps the most important step during the planting process is to keep up with the watering until your plant is fully established. That can take longer than you think.
Soaker hoses or drip irrigation on automatic times makes this an easy process. Water Properly Until Established. The most important job you will have after planting is to keep plants and trees well watered until established. This can take weeks to months, to even a year or more in some cases. You can put this part of the process on auto-pilot. The key to proper watering and establishment is slow and deep irrigation.
The only way to establish trees properly through irrigation is with soaker hoses or drip irrigation.
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